need help with pattern view A#2069 simplicity

[sewingmom]

Ok, Chloe measures 28.5 around the chest. The finished chest measurement of the size 10 is 30 inches. Sounds like size 10 is the size to cut. Chloe's back length is 14" to her natural waistline and she wears her pants at 16-17". How should I do the jacket. Do I want to lengthen it so the top of the skirt will be covered with the front of the jacket. That would mean adding 4 inches of length to the bodice. She isn't about to wear her skirt higher than comfortable. ( I usually cut the front of skirts and pants down 2-3 inches so they will hang straight at the hem and I usually make blouses about 19" long)
My confidence is low here because I messed up a couple of years ago and she was so dissapointed with her costume.
Marty, You were right on when telling me to use a size 10 in the Burda pattern earlier this summer.

[MartySews2]

SM, in this pattern because there is so much ease in it, you will need a size 8 for it to fit properly with the measurements that you posted. The finished garment measurements on the size 8 is a 29 inch chest measurement; for the size 10, it is 30-1/2 inches which will make it too big in the chest. The length of the skirt is 14-1/2 inches. A 19 inch skirt will be too long unless Chloe is over 5'7" tall. I measured my daughter who is about 5'2" & we determined that she would need a 16" skirt. I hope you bought extra fabric to make the adjustments. Since the top is a body suit & not a blouse, you need the neck to crotch length for Chloe's front & the back. The jacket should cover the waistband of the skirt as it will fall down over the top of the skirt with the extra panels. With a 14 inch back to waist length, you will only need to add 2 inches to the jacket front & back pieces. Hope this helps.
Marty

[sewingmom]

Thanks Marty. That should help tremendously. I think I have plenty of fabric. I usually err on the side of caution. Adding 2" is a whole lot easier than adding 4" I think I should be able to manage that. Do you suppose I should lengthen it above the darts or lengthen the darts also? I assume I must lengthen the front inset also?

[MartySews2]

There should be a marked area on where to increase or decrease the pattern. If not, go half-way down the pattern front & draw a line from side to side, then do the same for the back. Cut your pattern piece on that line, add the 2-1/4 inches of tissue paper or pattern drafting paper & tape on the top of the pattern. It will lengthen the darts automatically so everything will be in proportion. Yes, you would increase the front inset the same as the jacket front.
Marty

[sewingmom]

Thanks Marty!

[sewingmom]

Here are some screwed up instructions on this pattern
"3. Apply interfacing to collar. With wrong sides together, pin collar facing to collar. Baste raw edges together.
Apply tape to outer curved edge of collar.
On outside, pin collar (facing side) to neck edge of bodice matching centers back, placing small dot at shoulder seam and front end at large dot. baste."

there is not one more word about the collar in the whole set of instructions unless I have missed it. There is never a mention of turning the collar right side out and the drawing shows the top and bottom of the collar placed together and the bias seam binding/trim being placed over a raw edge that has been basted together. I have chosen to baste the two collar portions RS together (already have the interfacing on the wrong side) and placing the seam binding on the raw edge. Hope that is correct. I'm running out of time.

Sheesh!!!!! I miss read the instructions. they are correct. I know it said wrong sides together but my mind was telling me right sides together. Good greif. I'll never finish this in time.

[DorothyL]

I have made jackets where you attach the collar to the garment and the under collar to the facing then turn it as you turn the facing to the inside.

Dorothy

[sewingmom]

I have heard of that sort of construction but I did not read that here and do not think that is what was ment. Do you??? Really, that is all that is said about the collar. It is on anyway, whatever was ment. I need to deliberately try a jacket with that sort of construction so I will know what to do when it comes up again.

[DorothyL]

After doing it a few times I kind of avoid that technique -- it's easy but I'm never really pleased with the results.

Dorothy

[lendube]

You know, Sewingmom, lately more and more I've just been avoiding instructions. I bet you could too with all of your experience and find out that you really know a lot and don't need them most of the time. Or you might know a better way than they want you to do them. I used to get so frustrated trying to do exactly what they wanted me to do and then realized that as long as I liked the results, what did it matter?