fitting armscycle

[sewingrandma]

I'm trying to make some maternity tops for DD. She is very busty in addition to her "fluff". According to measurements she would wear a 26W but I felt she would swim in that size so went down to a 24W, if I followed her upper bust measurement it would be a 22W. I made a muslin (24) without any changes just to get an idea where to start from. Well it fit perfectly-bust darts where they should be, no stress between bust apex, sleeve length, girth at hips etc. Only problem is the armhole. It is so tight she can barely move her arms back, it pulls at the seam about where the notch is, but no pulling across the bust area. If she stands with arms straight at sides the armholes appear to fit correctly. Anyone have any ideas? I've search the web and haven't really located any thing that sounds like her problem. Could it actually be the sleeve itself, too tight across the bicep even though it doesn't look tight or pull? I did lower the armhole on one side to match a top that fits her but I don't think it will make much difference and I did follow directions to insert a gusset on the other to see if that would help. I need to take it to her to see if anything I did works but I'm sure I'm going to need to make another muslin with some other changes. Anyone have any other ideas or place to send me to look. I have Fit for Real People and it doesn't even address the problem DD has. Thanks for any help. DD can't find RTW maternity clothes and there are precious few patterns and even fewer ones that run to her size.

[MartySews2]

Brockie, in fitting the armscythe, you need to lengthen the armhole and scoop out the back to allow for movement. Then you will need to re-cut your sleeves to fit the armhole. Just my thoughts. Here is a tutorial by my internet friend, Dawn, who passed away this year. http://www.fashionacademy.co.uk/Sloping ... 202008.pdf Then here is an article from Threads magazine and Peggy Sagers. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/505 ... s/page/all I hope that these help you. Good luck!!!
Marty

[LeapFrog Libby]

Brockie, I have a similar problem with RTW blouses. Mine is only directly underarm is always too snug. I have devised a way to improve the fit when I make one for me. It might not work for your purpose, but here is what I do. I lengthen the underarm part of the sleeve, (from notch to notch) , then I add a little to match on the underarm part of the front and back tapering the addition to nothing above the waist. This keeps the fabric from pulling and irritating me under my arms.

[sewingrandma]

Thanks for the websites Marty. I had visited them and didn't see that they covered what the problem is with DD fit.
Libby, that sounds about like what I did on one sleeve/armhole. I'm hoping that it works since I'm at a loss as to what to do now. I do plan on taking the top to her tonight when she gets home from work to see if I improved the fit any. Thanks for your suggestions.

[sewingrandma]

Well, there was no improvement on the one top I've been trying to alter at the armhole. I'm at a loss. I hate the thought of tossing the pattern as there are so few out there for maturnity wear. She sent home a blouse that fits her and will try to copy that and use it for the base of the top. I made a muslin of another top and it fit perfectly, go figure!

[MartySews2]

Brockie, it could be that the pattern draft was off since the other one fit so well. Could you take that pattern and overlay it on the one that you're trying to fix and cut the armhole by it? Just saying.
Marty

[sewingrandma]

Wish I could compare patterns but unfortunately the one that fits so well is a one piece pattern-bodice and sleeve is all in one.

[sewingrandma]

The muslin finally fits thru the armhole area. I borrowed a blouse and traced the seams on it and compared them to the pattern and they didn't even come close to the same size and shape. Then I got the bright idea of checking my pattern stash. I actually found a pattern-one of Connie Crawfords-that I had purchased years ago and had gotten the wrong size so it had DD size in it. Compared the patterns and wow was the top I was trying to make way off. I sort of blended the 2 patterns together so I could keep the cowl neckline but get some armholes DD could work with and hit the jackpot the first time. Both of us are excited since she needs some clothing that aren't oversized men's T=shirts. She works in an office and needs a more suitable wardrobe.

[MartySews2]

Yay!!! That was going to be my next suggestion. I have heavy upper arms that are out of proportion to my shoulder/chest size. I'm constantly making sleeve alterations. It is frustrating. I'm so glad that you came up with a solution for your daughter.
Marty