fitting issues

[Magot]

Good work Judy - essentially if you take the dart and spread it out that IS how you are changing the shoulder seam.

[HeyJudee]

I don't do much sewing of garments, but I do buy the Threads magazines. This morning while sitting around I picked up the Nov. 2006 issue and there was an article about doing shoulder adjustments. From my limited knowledge , it looks like your problem was being addressed when they were diagnosing fitting problems for square shoulders. Maybe this helps....

"Square Shoulders
A relatively high shoulder point scoots the armscye up, leaving the shoulder seam and neckline unsupported. Thus, the neckline stands away from the neck or horizontal wrinkles form across the upper torso in front or back."

"For Square Shoulders, Angle Up
Square shoulders need a seam that slants less steeply from the neck to the shoulder point than it does on the pattern piece."

[bridesmom]

I have the same problem and I wonder if it's not related to your shoulder width. I find I need to take a small dart into the back neck area on each pattern I make otherwise the tops will not lay flat on my back but bubble out.

[DorothyL]

undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam.

Would you kind of angle into the regular seam allowance as you near the sleeve?
Dorothy

[Sewing Lady]

Whoo Hoo!! Just try it to repair first and see if it works. Rotating the imaginary dart to the shoulder seams should work with patterns.

[Magot]

Cunning idea Sewinglady - thanks! I knew someone here would have the brains to see round the problem I was having. RTW is normally fine - it is just the stuff I make.

[kaitlinnegan]

Measure the dart at the top, undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam. Basically, what you are doing is making a dart and rotating it to the shoulders

Now, that sounds smart! I'll have to remember that - I have had this problem before too. Not as much since I started using my high bust measurement and doing a FBA, but sometimes thing still seem a little loose in the upper back.

[Sewing Lady]

Jan, JMO Have someone pinch out a dart shape in the back of the blouse. Measure the dart at the top, undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam. Basically, what you are doing is making a dart and rotating it to the shoulders. This will fix the RTW stuff, I think.

[Magot]

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e81/J ... hoto93.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e81/J ... hoto94.jpg

Not easy taking pictures of yourself in profile! I had similar issues with a cross over top I made - just too much fabric at the back of the neck.

[SmilieFace]

42 more pounds and I will.

Keep going with your weight loss! It's impressive and inspiring! Last year I lost 23 lbs from August through November. Yesterday, I stepped on the scale for the first this year, and I had gained 10 lbs back! Ack!