fitting issues

[DorothyL]

undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam.

Would you kind of angle into the regular seam allowance as you near the sleeve?
Dorothy

[bridesmom]

I have the same problem and I wonder if it's not related to your shoulder width. I find I need to take a small dart into the back neck area on each pattern I make otherwise the tops will not lay flat on my back but bubble out.

[HeyJudee]

I don't do much sewing of garments, but I do buy the Threads magazines. This morning while sitting around I picked up the Nov. 2006 issue and there was an article about doing shoulder adjustments. From my limited knowledge , it looks like your problem was being addressed when they were diagnosing fitting problems for square shoulders. Maybe this helps....

"Square Shoulders
A relatively high shoulder point scoots the armscye up, leaving the shoulder seam and neckline unsupported. Thus, the neckline stands away from the neck or horizontal wrinkles form across the upper torso in front or back."

"For Square Shoulders, Angle Up
Square shoulders need a seam that slants less steeply from the neck to the shoulder point than it does on the pattern piece."

[Magot]

Good work Judy - essentially if you take the dart and spread it out that IS how you are changing the shoulder seam.