link to sewing helps by Kwik Sew/need fit help

[sewingmom]

I am using a Kwik sew pattern 3470 view A, and making it for my pear shaped friend. Her measurements are bust 49.75" (ddd cup), waist 44", hips 57.25. Shoulders are 16" across the back from shoulder point to shoulder point. can anyone give Any help on choosing pattern size and fitting my friend. I have found clear conscise instructions for a large bust adjustment. I did not get her back waist length but she appears short waisted. It seems to me that though the bust in 2x is clossest to correct and I suspect the shoulders will be also then I will need a large bust adjustment and to use the 3x waist size and add 2.5" for the hips. in size 3x. Perhaps the 3x is the best choice all around.
http://kwiksew.mccall.com/filebin/pdf/K ... _Guide.pdf

[sewingmom]

Hey., has anyone got a suggestion for the size to choose for this persons overblouse?? View A.
I know I will have to shorten it for her petite/short frame but what size to cut out initially??

[MartySews2]

What is her upper bust measurement? Always start with the upper bust measurement in choosing a pattern, then do a full bust adjustment. That way, the shoulders will fit perfectly. Measure from the center back at the bra strap, under the arms & above the full bust around to the back to get the upper bust measurement. Also note whether your customer has a broad back. To determine this, you measure under the underarm across the back to the other underarm. Then measure the front from underarm to underarm. If there is a difference, then you need to do a broad back adjustment. The upper bust measurement will determine which pattern size you choose. Fitting is the most crucial part of sewing & takes the longest. The book Fit for Real People & the accompanying DVD explain how to do this in detail. You should be able to find it at Hancock Fabrics or you can order from the the website http://www.palmer-pletsch.com. They also have a DVD for doing Full bust adjustments. Almost all of their DVDs are around $20 & contain valuable info. I like having the books but the DVD puts it all in perspective. Hope this helps you. Sorry to be so long in answering but I've been at the Delta Fair for the last 2 days from opening time until closing demonstrating sewing & knitting.
Marty