Serging on knits

[cgmemphis]

Hi to all! I worked on a cute toddler knit top pattern yesterday that had a gathered strip (about 4 inches) along the bottom of the tee-shirt, and also puff sleeves. I used my ruffler foot on the gather across the bottom as it did seem to gather 2:1 ratio which was what worked for the pattern, but it just does not seem very "ruffly" and I figured that was because it is knit fabric. Also, I can do like Margaret Tully says on the sleeves that require just a little ease, serging normally until I get to the notches where I need to gather, and then changing the diff feed a couple of notches to gather for the top portion of the sleeve cap, and then once I hit the final notch, I change my diff feed back to normal. For the puff sleeve, this technique didn't work as it did not gather enough the sleeve cap and the sleeve hem where the sleeve band went (seems that may need more of a 3 or 4:1 ratio). Will just do that gathering on the sewing machine and then attach the sleeve to the garment on the serger, unless anyone has any other tips to share.

Also, the lettuce edge hem turned out well, no pokies! Used a 3-thread wide overlock stitch this time leaving the left needle in. The wide lettuce edge is cute on toddler clothes.

[cgmemphis]

I found an interfacing that Pellon makes for stretch knits, comes in black and white, on the bolts.

[sewingrandma]

I buy a tricot fusible interfacing for my knits, not sure if it is Pellon or not but it does come on a bolt. I haven't tried a ruffler on knits keep us posted on how it works out for you again. I also love the lettuce hem on kids clothing. I can't wait til DGD is old enough for me to make some cute outfits.

[cgmemphis]

Yes, I'll have to do more testing of the ruffler foot on knits...I'm sure there is a better way. I finally think I have the lettuce edge hem down pat. Tried it 2 ways and they both work so much better than my previous efforts. I used the water soluble stabilizer as suggested and that really helped prevent the pokies! I also made a test piece using the Maxi-Lock STRETCH serger thread in the upper looper. Of course, I had to read the manual and figure out how to thread the fuzzier thread, but it wasn't hard. It turned out beautifully, too!

I have never sewn children's clothing (I had a son, and did not have any little girls), but am having a ball sewing for my niece and my friend's granddaughters. Your DGD will grow so fast, you might want to start sewing for her now and make a stash of different sizes ahead of time--LOL!

[cgmemphis]

In the process of making a 4T knit top with the same gathered strip across the bottom of the T-shirt. This time I gathered with regular sewing machine (2 rows) and then serged together with the left needle catching in the middle of the 2 rows. I really like the fact that the Baby Lock has the regular presser foot which has a couple of slots to insert the 1/4-inch elastic ribbon, so I was able to do those 2 steps at the same time. The gathers turned out so much better than with the ruffler foot, but again, this is on stretch knit. I'm sure woven cotton will ruffle beautifully with the ruffler foot.

What else did I learn today? If I want my cross seams to line up with each other when I am seaming a side seam, I need to either pull the top layer of fabric near the cross seam about 1/8th of an inch back from the bottom layer before stitching over the bump, or when I get to the cross seam, I need to put one finished edge going up and one going down. Clear as mud?!

Have a great week, y'all!

[cgmemphis]

Update on previous post of bulky intersecting seams not matching up...I decreased the pressor foot pressure with the knob at the top of my serger, and it did help. Spent the afternoon trying to perfect this technique. Spent the day before with Marty, Harriet, and Jan at Sit & Sew class. Love the exchange of ideas and getting to know new, nice people with shared interests. This week I am going to sew something for myself for a change. Y'all have a great week!

[cgmemphis]

Made a little girl's top 4T out of polka dot knit this afternoon with a peplum bottom and 3-thread narrow hem but not lettuced. Did a contrasting neckband the regular way, and then used my new coverstitch machine and binder, and bound the armholes in the contrasting color, and they turned out well--only took a couple of tries, but finally got the hang of the binder--it's a crazy-looking contraption! I just used the left needle and the chainstitch, so my mistakes unraved easily . Of course, I still need practice, practice, practice!

Have a great week!

[sewingmom]

CgMemphis, oh your cyber name and posts make me long to go to the place of my birth. Id love to sew again sometime again soon. Keep posting. A sit and sew with you and Marty would be so much fun. Suppose you'll be able to post some photos of your projects??? Belinda

[MartySews2]

Sorry that I didn't make it to Sit & Sew on Saturday ... sinus infection and earache ... not a good combination. It's off to the doctor tomorrow for more antibiotics. Can't wait to see what you have made with your new coverstitch machine, Cheryl. I was in Memphis Sewing on Friday and everyone said hello to you and thanked me for directing you to them. Also, Belinda, I'm hoping that one day soon, you will be able to slip away to Memphis for a sewing weekend with Cheryl and me. We would have a blast. As soon as I finish one of my multiple projects, I will post pics.
Marty

[cgmemphis]

Belinda, Yes, the "Memphis" part and the "y'all" are a dead giveaway--LOL! (I would love to post pictures, but need to stop for a few minutes and learn how to do that). I enjoy Sit & Sew with Marty and friends/students once or twice a month. Would be so much fun to get together with you, too! Marty, hope you feel better soon! Y'all be good