McCalls 6027, Red Crepe Back Satin dress: DONE!

[kjh9835]

This will be the thread for the test dress and finished dress of MCalls 6027 found here: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6027-products-10725.php?page_id=108

I decided to make view D (the green one on the pattern pic) without the godets as I figured it would be less labor intensive and the party is Dec. 10th. According to the pattern, I would be a size 10 but the only pattern they had started at 12. I figured I'd make the 12 and take it up according to how it fit. Good thing I made a size 12 test dress because a size 10 would be too tight across the abdomen. I did not do the lining for the test dress.

I used a silky polyester I bought for $1/yd a few years ago for the test dress, it has a funky lime and white leopard/zebra print and I doubt I'd use it for anything else. It's a lighter weight than the satin but should drape similiar to the satin.

I need to find my Fit for Real People book as the straps are too far out onto my shoulder even without the weight of the little sleeves that I did not do yet and the back gaps when I am in a relaxed position. I had my book out while fixing dd16's Halloween costume so it is here somewhere.

Kathy

[sewingmom]

I am interested to know how you are going to cut a skirt pattern with godets, to make it without godets. This will be interesting to follow. I know you didn't ask but in my mind I think you would have to cut a narrower nek to bring the straps in toward the neck, But I can't imagine how that would affect the back armscye because it probably is to far lateraly on the back also? Just musing here. Keep up the good work. That muslin sounds interesting. (Wish I could Fit a Pattern size 12).

[kjh9835]

There are four versions in one pattern, two with godets (A and B, print and white on pics), two without (C and D, coral and green on pics). The armsyce is also a little small so I'll have to also alter that once I find my book. Since the godets make the skirt much fuller and I will have to hand hem, time is a factor and the test dress has a full enough twirly skirt for me to make it dressy enough but not over the top.

If I had time and decided to do the godets, I'd like to see them in black satin with black satin sleeves and the rest of the dress in red....interesting contrast but pulled together. Maybe I'll quit my job...lol

Kathy

[kjh9835]

Found my book, read about princess seams and back adjustments. Decided I needed to move the shoulder straps in about 3/4" to give me the bra strap coverage I want. Drew out the pattern pieces, adjusted the lines for the back and the straps. Thought maybe I could just make the "bodice" part again since I know the waist/skirt are fine.

I started with the waist line and drew it horizontal for straight edge, made the new pieces with left over satin and tried it on. It's too tight across the back but straps are good. I am now making a new test dress with an old white sheet and letting the back out 1/4" each side for more room. When I line up the bottom edges of the new bodice pieces with the horizontal waist line, it really looks funky, like it won't even stitch together correctly. I know I did not make such large changes but then again 3/4" on each side, would make it look odd.

TIme will tell...

Kathy

[bridesmom]

Go Kathy Go!!

[MartySews2]

Kathy, it could still look wonky but fit fine as no one's body is shaped perfectly. Thank you for detailing your dress construction with us.
Marty

[kjh9835]

Well....

I don't know what I did differently but now it's too big across the back again with an even bigger gap at the neckline. I only let it back out 1/4" which would be 1/2" overall and I did baste the zipper in just to see the overall fit. I ended up letting out the side back/back seam from the waist up, angled the seam over the whole 5/8" and re-stitched. Much better and I still have breathing/eating room across the abdomen. I have the usual "belly pooch" under my waist but have slimmer briefs I can wear.

The pattern only calls for lining from the shoulder to the waist but after reading pattern reviews and realizing I'll need my slimmer, I'm going to get enough lining to the do the whole dress so nothing shows thru. I'll have to make a run to JoAnn's either tonight or tomorrow for more lining.

dd16 wants a dress for her Christmas party too. She said "you did that dress quick, can you do one for me?" I explained that b/c the pattern has princess seams, it's only 8 pieces to sew together plus a zipper to get a whole dress. She said "can you do one for me now and a bunch in summer prints for next year?" Hmm, maybe I'll pick up a pattern for her, some cheapo test fabric and show her how. I already know some of her fitting issues from the bridesmaid dress I made in 2009 but of course now I'd have to do a double/triple full bust adjustment...lol

Will prob. cut out my dress tonight and get it done this weekend so I can get back to the couch throw quilt and the baby quilt.

Kathy

[sewingmom]

You don't fool around with your sewing do you? I'm sure your dress will be georgeous.

[kjh9835]

Got called in early yesterday so got off work earlier than expected. Made trip to Eville for lining. Pattern only calls for 3/8 yd since it is only supposed to be the bodice that's lined. The dress takes 3 3/8 of fabric so I planned to get that in lining also then could not decide if I needed to make the whole dress in lining b/c you don't need the skirt fullness in the lining nor does it have to be exact in length. I got 3 yards so I could cut it out long enough but will prob. taper in the fullness below the waist when I cut the lining so it's more like a fuller slip under the dress. If I slip-stitch it to the seam allowances at the waist then it won't ride up but still give me coverage.

Got home late since I made a pit stop at Yankee Candle in the mall, got back in time to pick up dd16 at work and take her to friend's house, home about 8pm, bed by 9pm as I was exhausted. Got up at 445am to pick up dd16 to take her to work but she's sicker than a dog. Have birthday party this afternoon plus picking up cooked ribs and pork butt from band fundraiser (best ever, buy them every year). No cooking for me this weekend means more time in the sewing room

Kathy

[MartySews2]

Am looking forward to seeing the dress when done.
Marty