Gaping back

[SmilieFace]

I have been working on New Look 6749 for the past two days. I made a muslin first (well, sans zipper), and then begun on the fashion fabric and lining. I lined the skirt, even though the pattern doesn't call for it. I've been going very slowly because 1) I haven't touched my sewing machine since New Years, 2) I planned to wear this to my graduation next week, 3) My sister brought me the fabric after a trip to Africa last year, so there's no getting more fabric.

The muslin fit fine, and so did the dress before I put in the zipper. I added the hem, added the zipper, finished ALL the edges, and put it on to show-off my work. And this is what I got (see the pictures below).

The dress looks fine from the front, but the back is gaping something horrible! I don't have a dress dummy, so I can't tell where to tuck. I had my dad pull in the back to see if I could just add in some darts, and he says that it gapes much more in the middle of the back then the top. Without being able to see what I'm doing, I don't just want to guess on adding in the darts. Then I thought about taking the cap sleeves, and adding some clear elastic at the top for some gathers. When I pull at the dress to see the effect, it seems like that might work, but I'm not sure if that would look cute.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do to save the dress?


[edited to add: sorry the pictures take up so much space! i'm not sure how to shrink them on here]

[HeyJudee]

I think this is similar to a problem Jan had a couple of years ago when she made a top...I think it has to do with sloping shoulders or something like that. I'll have to go look for it in a sewing book that I have.

[HeyJudee]

I just found the earlier post...in 2008 as a matter of fact. It was square shoulders that was Jan's problem. Maybe that's your problem as well.
http://talk.sew-whats-up.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1692&st=0&sk=t&sd=d&hilit=gaping

Edited: Upon relooking at your pics, I'd say you may have sloping shoulders. I did find this on-line re fitting shoulders. Hope it helps
http://books.google.ca/books?id=1gSsXUEIJwIC&pg=PA55&lpg=PA55&dq=fitting+sloping+shoulders&source=bl&ots=s1uvhig4BW&sig=LQ2z3OmPoO1Eg04LgqRJwjY-c3w&hl=en&ei=8HuzTeG0G7OM0QGD3qGGCQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7&ved=0CEIQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=fitting%20sloping%20shoulders&f=false

[MartySews2]

Smilie, it seems too that you may have a narrow upper back. See if you can get someone to measure your back from underarm to underarm. Compare that measurement with the pattern pieces. I think if you could take out the zipper & cut down the excess fabric from the center back based on your new measurements & then sew the zipper back in, it will work. Also, you may want to stabilize the neckline seam with some clear elastic which will pull it closer to the body. I wish that I were closer to help you. Hope this info helps.
Marty

[bridesmom]

I hate to say it, but I don't think it's going to be a quick fix. I agree with Marty, that you are going to have to take the zipper out, take it in and put the zipper back in. Do you have a friend that could pin the back for you so it fits right? You could attempt to do the elastic on the top of the sleeves by just tacking in an elastic on the inside, just to test it and see if it's going to work. It may be alright, and then you can call it a design feature! How frustrating for you. But I do have to say the fabric is fantastic! And I love the dress style on you!

[DorothyL]

I planned to wear this to my graduation next week,

Congratulations!! I know you worked hard.

Dorothy

[SmilieFace]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. (And for the congratulations!)

I was trying to avoid taking out the zipper. Time isn't that big of an issue -- I don't have classes between now and graduation -- but I sewed the zipper in to stay: 2 lines of straight stitching, and then zig zag stitching to keep the edges from fraying. Oh, and the basting to hold the fashion fabric to the lining. I'm afraid if I take it out and then put it in again, the rather delicate fabric will be too weak.

I saw on patternreview someone else had the same issue. She brought the sleeves in an inch at the seems (the sleeves are two pieces) and that seemed to work. What do you think of me doing that? I would need to cover the bottom of the sleeve with something -- would it be too much to add the gold trim to the bottom of the sleeve?

Happy Easter!

[sewingmom]

That fabric is beautiful and the style is perfect for you. I am not sure you will be happy moving the sleeves in. Perhaps someone better at alterations will chime in here.

[kaitlinnegan]

What a lovely dress! And what a pain to have gone through all the trouble of making a muslin only to have a problem crop up with the finished dress.

When you say you could bring in the sleeves, do you mean actually narrowing the sleeves, or taking in the back bodice where it attaches to the sleeves? I might suggest the latter, since it looks like the sleeves fit well (aren't too large).

I also wonder if maybe the back bodice length is too long? You might be able to tell better once the back neckline fits.

[trini]

My advice is not based on any great skill in sewing but I have noticed that a number of new designs have tucks at the neckline in both back and front; maybe you can try two small tucks on either side of the neckline.
Just a suggestion.
Lei.