Satin seam puckering

[PaulineG]

I've just had to make a really disgusting pair of orange satin pants for the school production. There's a small amount of stretch and it appears to have a crepe backing - I think it's charmeuse but aren't entirely sure as I didn't buy it. I serged the seams and got a fair amount of puckering (although my test for tension etc. was okay). Just wondering how to avoid puckering on both the serger and the sewing machine. Is it just about tension or is there something else to it. I got the majority of the puckering out during pressing but I know I wouldn't be happy with it if it was a real clothing item rather than a costume. I've got one other pair to do so I'm hoping somebody's got a magic wand.

[paroper]

Always use directional sewing on satin. There are fabrics that may not matter as much but satin isn't one of them. Check the pattern to see which way you should sew. There should be little arrows or triangles that show the correct direction. I believe you sew up pants from the bottom, the same as skirts, but I could be wrong. If you don't use the directional sewing, the seams will be wavy.

[PaulineG]

Aha! You're absolutely right Pam. Which would also explain why the inside leg seam is pretty much fine and the outside has all the problems. Unfortunately I'm using a pattern not intended for satin so directional sewing instructions aren't included. However I know enough now to make the other pair without the same issue and if I can't avoid satin in the future at least I know what to consider before sewing.

Once again you've nailed it. Thanks Pam.

[Glennssister]

Pauline, I am sure you toyed with the differential feed on your serger. That might adjust the stitch to reduce or ommit the puckering.

[PaulineG]

I didn't because when I did a test stitch on some offcuts everything looked fine. Then of course I went ahead and did the pants and they looked fine until I turned them out the right way. The fabric appeared to move evenly through the feed dogs without shifting and the DF was set to 1.0. If I was to try adjusting this to help which way would I go - higher or lower? I think it really was a directional sewing issue as Pam suggested because the inside seams on the pants were fine - it was only the outside (sewn in a different direction) that were the problem but it's still potentially useful information. Other than not getting the right effect (puckering for example) - is there any other way of telling when you need to make these adjustments. It's definitely looking like time to start a serger notebook for fabric settings etc.

[paroper]

After sewing bridesmaids dresses for years, I think satin type fabrics must be some of the worst for showing the puckers of not sewing in the correct direction.

[Upholsteress]

This is something I never knew! Thank you ladies. I love satin.. (read = SHINY) LOL! and as for orange.. I have about 24 yards of tangerine satin to do something with... and 26 yards of leaf green satin.... Last October DD and fiance scrapped the wedding plans and went to the courthouse..

[PaulineG]

Well Cheryl - the orange looks really good as duck legs. I don't mind most orange (I even have walls in a pale yellowy orange shade - seems to be a recurring thing here) but this orange is pretty yuk.

BTW I made the second pair with only a tiny bit of puckering so it really was almost entirely due to directional sewing (or lack of) in the first pair. Thanks again Pam.

[Upholsteress]

Quack! Quack! LOL!!