Melton Wool

[bridesmom]

I bought some melton wool cloth to make a jacket. I've never sewn with it before, any suggestions???
Can I serge the seams or do I even need to??? What about dealing with the thickness of the seams at the collar and under the arms etc??? It's very heavy fabric, that's for sure. It will be lined with a rayon lining, totally all dryclean only!!!

[DorothyL]

You know to lengthen your stitch with a thick fabric (especially with several layers) don't you?
And grade your collar seam allowances careful with the biggest on top. You'll be fine.

[bridesmom]

Do you pink the edges Dorothy? Do you press your seams open?? When you press it, do you use a cloth, so it doesn't leave marks?? I've sewn some of it up, but I am at the point where I need to press and I'm a little leary!

[Sancin]

I have never done anything to melton seam edges. The fabric is pretty heavy to ravel. Most of the coats I have made I have lined to make donning and removing easier so there has been little wear on the seams. I steam press open the seams and use a wooden block to set the seam. Depending on the weight of the fabric you may want to put something between the seam edges and the main fabric so nothing shows, but doubt that it will. Experiment. I always use a press cloth when sewing any wool as it seems to finish the fabric nicely or keep the original texture from being too flat.
I have seen flat felled seams on melton but suspect the inner seam is graded closely to avoid bulk. You want to keep some drape to the fabric.

[bridesmom]

Well, so far so good. I have the jacket lining done and ready to put in, the jacket is done to putting in the sleeves, haven't quite figured out how to 'gather' melton cloth!! It's a tad thick for that. Maybe hand basting with a heavier thread, then using the ham and pressing it. And a trip to the shop for buttons as I don't have anything at all that screams ' pick me for the jacket'!! Won't get back to it until Tues, then will post a pic!

[DorothyL]

I agree, since it is lined you shouldn't have to do much with the seams. Pinking wouldn't hurt I guess. I'd just press -- with a pressing cloth!!