Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

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Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby kjh9835 on Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:43 pm

I am not making the jr. bridesmaid dress in chiffon but the lady that does our formal weal alterations is making it. I told her I had the pattern and would test fit as best I could then she could take it from there for whatever she thinks it may need before she makes the dress in the chiffon. The fabric won't be here til mid-August, the wedding is Sept. 22 I think.

So, looking at view C of this pattern, http://www.simplicity.com/p-1634-childgirl-dresses.aspx, I need to get rid of the pink trim from the top of the bodice and hem and the sash in the middle.

The hem is not a problem as I figure I can just add the height of that piece to the bottom of the skirt or if there's a "lenghten or shorten here" area, put that measurement in that place but not sure about the others.

Can I just tape the seperate trim pattern pieces together at the tops of the bodice minus the seam allowance allowed for putting the trim on?

For the removal of the sash/ties, can I add that to either the bottom of the bodice or the top of the skirt or split the difference between the two (again getting rid of the allowance for the seams)? Should I plan to add ties at the side seams of that location?

This pattern is the closest we found to what she wanted and I've asked her to double check the little girls measurements before I start on the practice one. I'm going to use some of the extra chambray I bought for curtains.

Also, do you think the princess seams will cause any issues with the chiffon? Since I've never sewn it, I'm not sure what it will/won't do. This pattern calls for: cotton, cotton blends, chambray, damask, pique, seersucker, satin, soft lightweight linen and linen blends or challis.

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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby MartySews2 on Mon Jul 02, 2012 9:14 pm

It will need a lining & french seams. If you're using view C, it's easy to omit the trim. I would just add pattern tissue where the waist insert would be so it would be treated as one pattern piece. However, I would not lengthen the bodice above the waist insert as it might show what doesn't need to be seen. I would definitely tell the dressmaker that there needs to be boning in the bodice. I think that a tulle muslin would make it closer to chiffon as chambray is not that pliable & does not drape in the same manner. The dressmaker will need to stabilize each seam to prevent puckering. I've made chiffon overskirts but never a total chiffon dress.
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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby pinecone on Mon Jul 02, 2012 9:30 pm

kjh9835 wrote:Can I just tape the separate trim pattern pieces together at the tops of the bodice minus the seam allowance allowed for putting the trim on?


I think that would work ok.

kjh9835 wrote:For the removal of the sash/ties, can I add that to either the bottom of the bodice or the top of the skirt or split the difference between the two (again getting rid of the allowance for the seams)? Should I plan to add ties at the side seams of that location?


It is hard to tell from the back picture but I would make the seam in the front match the seam in the back so you might have to lengthen the top and bring the waist of the skirt up. If you want to keep the ties, just keep it like it is and use the same fabric for all.


kjh9835 wrote:Also, do you think the princess seams will cause any issues with the chiffon? Since I've never sewn it, I'm not sure what it will/won't do. Kathy


I think it should be ok. With chiffon you/she will have 2 layers of fabric which can be a pita to put zippers in but then you said she has experience.

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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby LeapFrog Libby on Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:10 am

The one time I worked with Chiffon, I made a jacket for a 3 piece outfit for my sister as MOB from Embroidered Chiffon. $32.00 per yard and Boy, was I nervous about that. It turned out well, but you have to use french seams throughout and that took a lot of time. Her outfit was lavender, our favorite color and it was gorgeous.
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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby pinecone on Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:06 pm

LeapFrog Libby wrote:...you have to use french seams throughout and that took a lot of time. .


I took a close look at DD's wedding gown and her chiffon layer also has french seams.

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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby kjh9835 on Wed Jul 04, 2012 5:12 pm

I found some sheer fabric like for curtains in my stash, do you think that would work? It was leftover from a wedding and I think they used it to drape around a gazebo or something. I have some old white sheets I could use for the lining and the sheer for the dress or is sheet fabric too heavy? Is it necessary to actually do all the details like french seams for the practice one?

I know that Sue is competent enough to make the dress in the chiffon and do it right but since the fabric isn't coming until August and the wedding is in September, I thought if I did the practice dress for her as best I could then she could take it from there but I could at least save her some time. She lives here in town but the little girl is about 45 minutes away so if I got the basic fitting done, they wouldn't have to make but a couple trips here.

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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby MartySews2 on Wed Jul 04, 2012 5:31 pm

Sounds like a good plan, Kathy.
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Re: Alteration of pattern pieces to get what I want

New postby pinecone on Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:31 am

MartySews2 wrote:Sounds like a good plan, Kathy.
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And what is the worst thing that will happen, it is a practice dress so if it flops it is time for plan B. Good luck.

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