Zippers and stitches

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Zippers and stitches

New postby Mule on Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:03 pm

I have 2 unrelated questions as I'm looking at patterns and deciding what to make...

Yes, I'm still wasting time and haven't actually started anything... I did finish the romper I was making for DD though!

1. I noticed some dress patterns call for invisible zipper, some for a lapped zipper, and others for a center zipper. I understand the purpose of the invisible zipper and why it is used, but my question is regarding lapped versus center zipper. What would be the relative advantages and disadvantages of each? Or under what circumstances would you choose one over the other?

2. Would there be any reason not to use a decorative stitch instead of regular topstitching? I'm looking at a blouse pattern that has topstitching around the edges, but think it might look nicer with a decorative stitch instead since the fabric is a plain solid. Other than practicing how to pivot at the corners to avoid a partial stitch, is there anything I would need to consider?

These probably sound like really stupid questions to most of you -- I apologize for being so clueless!
Beth
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Re: Zippers and stitches

New postby bridesmom on Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:12 pm

No question is ever stupid Beth. I can come up with some doozies sometimes, I chalk it up to an air bubble in the brain1!
Zippers, the centre zipper looks best in the centre of a back, the folds are even on both sides. A lapped zipper is used on a skirt or pant on the side seam, the wider lap is on the front side, covers the zipper and lays flatter on the side. An invisible zipper can go anywhere you would put either of the other two, except I don't think I'd use it on a fly front. If you look at RTW (ready to wear) you'll see the difference in how the zippers are placed.

The topstitching, by all means do what ever you want, make it your own! You may need to adjust the stitch length to accommodate the length of the design or I've also seen people start in a corner, like on the corner of a collar, and work backwards towards the neck, that way they know the design will start correctly and you can hide how it ends if need be.

And don't feel bad about just looking at patterns. I can sit and look at patterns for hours trying to decide what I want to do. Sometimes I can pick the fabric out to go with a pattern, and sometimes a pattern screams for a specific fabric. But it's all fun1
You'll have to post a picture of the romper you made! We love pictures!
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Re: Zippers and stitches

New postby MartySews2 on Mon Jul 11, 2011 9:51 pm

Beth, just a tip, use stabilizer when using a decorative stitch & lengthen your stitch a bit & go down on the tension to 3 or 2.5 for best results. This will help prevent puckering of your stitches. I always look at patterns for inspiration. As far as zippers go, a center lapped zipper could be used in the back of a dress or you can use an invisible zipper there. A single lapped zipper goes with the side of a skirt or pants but I would not use it on the front of pants as a fly front zipper would look better. Basically fold your seam allowance down & see which way the zipper is more pleasing to your eyes to determine which application to use. Have fun with sewing.
Marty ;)
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Re: Zippers and stitches

New postby DorothyL on Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:08 am

2. Would there be any reason not to use a decorative stitch instead of regular topstitching? I'm looking at a blouse pattern that has topstitching around the edges, but think it might look nicer with a decorative stitch instead since the fabric is a plain solid



Before I got my machine with lots of fancy stitches I always said I'd never use them. Now that I have them I use them all the time. It works especially well with knits. Just play around with the stitch on a scrap first.

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Re: Zippers and stitches

New postby sewingmom on Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:17 am

Beth, a few months ago Threads magazine had an article that mentioned using your zipper as a design element and embelishing around it with decorative stitches. There is an article in the current issue about putting in invisible zippers invisibly. I have only skimmed it but it seems an article worth the purchase of the magazine. I think the well done invisible zipper is Perfect fo pretty dresses and blouses but there is no top stitching around it so if you eant to use for a design rlrment, use a centered or exposed application. A contrasing or complementary colored zipper with matching thread color topstitiching would be awesome.

Beth, I agree with Marty about the stabilizer to keep the stitches from puckering.
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Re: Zippers and stitches

New postby Mule on Tue Jul 12, 2011 4:06 pm

Thanks for all your great answers! I still don't understand why when I looked at two similar dress patterns, one had a lapped zipper in the back and the other a center zipper. I guess it's just a design choice like so many other things.

I'll definitely look at that article from Threads about the invisible zippers. I have an invisible zipper foot, but have only sewn lapped and center zippers in so far.
Beth
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