Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

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Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby fabric_addict on Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:49 pm

Well, I've got the outside of the dress pretty well done this weekend. I still need to attach the loops and then the lining. When I attach the lining, it will finish off the edge of the neckline and armholes and back.

I'm uncertain how to handle the edges of my seam fabric. It isn't fraying too badly right now, but it definietly has the potential to do so with more handling. I don't want the seams to be bulky or anything, so I avoided french and hong-kong seams. Perhaps just overcast or whip stitch by hand along the raw edge? How to handle the areas where I needed to clip the seams on the curve?

Man! That silk lining fabric is a real pain to work with...very light and slippery. I'm not sure how the lining will turn out. Luckily, it is on the inside so no one should notice. (How to handle the seam edges on this fabric too?)

The silk dupioni was a dream to work with. Great stuff. Because I decided to make the lines run vertical, it worked great for my pattern pieces, I could line up the fabric along the grainline on the pattern piece very easily.

Also, I'm trying to decide on whether or not to do piping (either flat or round) around the neck and armholes. I was thinking that blue around the edges might be too much if I were to make a fabric choker to wear as a "necklace". So perhaps in the same as the dress fabric? Sorry no photos right now...I've got to head to work soon. I'll take some tonight and upload them. I realize it is hard to comment on the color without those. My concern about piping is how to finish the shoulder seams with the piping...it will definitely add challenge. Perhaps sew on something along the edges after sewing up the neckline and armholes?
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby MartySews2 on Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:49 pm

Theresa, I would serge the edges of the lining. This will give a neat finish & not add bulk.
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby DorothyL on Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:19 pm

I agree with Marty about the lining edges. Are you using a walking foot to deal with the lining fabric slipping around. I think overcasting the seams of the silk is a good idea. With the serger if you can, otherwise by hand. If you trim them you might not have to clip the curves as much.
I'm a big fan of flat piping myself.
Of course Leighanna is the one with the answers to the questions -- I'm just guessing.
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby fabric_addict on Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:40 pm

Unfortunately I don't have a serger, so that's not really an option for me.

Actually I have been using a walking foot. It has definitely made the job easier, I can't imagine how hard it would be without it.

Here are photos of the dress so far. Please bear in mind the edges of the neckline and sleeves will be 5/8 inches shorter in each direction.

I wonder how the flat piping would look on the neckline only and not the sleeve holes? How do I make flat piping? Is it basically just a piece of bias fabric folded in half and sandwiched between the seams? (at least that's what I was going to try)
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby fabric_addict on Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:56 pm

thanks for the tips. If you have any more suggestions, feel free.

Oh...is there any reason that I shouldn't sew/tack down the seam allowances to the underlining?
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby MartySews2 on Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:58 pm

Without a serger, I would carefully zigzag around the edges about 1/4 inch from the edge to prevent raveling of the fabric. Tacking the facings to the underlining is an excellent idea. Your dress looks beautiful so far. Looks like you are doing great.
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby bridesmom on Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:11 am

it's BEAUUUTTTiOUS! It's going to be sooooo pretty!!!!
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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby DorothyL on Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:08 am

That is pretty. You will be beautiful!!
I wonder how the flat piping would look on the neckline only and not the sleeve holes? How do I make flat piping? Is it basically just a piece of bias fabric folded in half and sandwiched between the seams? (at least that's what I was going to try)


That is how I make flat piping. I think it would look fine just at the neckline. I would make it very narrow. It will draw eyes to your face.

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Re: Question about seam finishes on wedding dress

New postby fabric_addict on Tue Feb 23, 2010 10:05 am

Awesome! Thanks for the ideas! ...and the compliments :oops:
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