Please help me fit this shirt!

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Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby LegalDealer on Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:49 pm

Background info: I took a Sandra Betzina Fitting top Half class at the ASG conference this year. We worked on altering a Vogue Todays Fit pattern after trying on a vogue sloper jacket. She had me add 1/2 inch thru the chest area straight from arm hole to armhole as well as the back pattern piece and sleeves. I am working on Vogue 7903 View A with B cuff, B size. She also had me add 1/2 inch above dart on front only for bust size, and take up 1/2 inch below dart. I also added some hip room. After fitting with the tissue and pin fitting the fabric I made a forward shoulder adjustment about 3/4 inch. I never made one before so I winged it with the help of a book. After basting the darts I changed the angle of the bust dart towards the apex and took a deeper darts on the back. I am making this shirt from 100 percent cotton.

So with these pics you can see I still need some work. It looks like I need more armhole room right? with all those wrinkles in the back armhole? AND I need to pull over my shoulder/sleeve seam on top right, do you see that maybe it is too broad? How can I fix these things now and save this shirt from beckyhomecky look?
Thank you for your help
Bonny
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july 09 to sept 09 116.JPG
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july 09 to sept 09 114.JPG
july 09 to sept 09 114.JPG (145.05 KB) Viewed 1438 times
july 09 to sept 09 113.JPG
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july 09 to sept 09 110.JPG
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby Here_Fishey on Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:30 pm

Well, from what I can see on the back, the wrinkle on the back seems to be coming from the fact that the waist is holding it up. If you try letting out the back darts the fabric may fall back to where it wants to be. To make the back of the shirt more fitted, you could try making back shoulder darts to take up some of the fabric in the upper back. Be warned that if you do this, you may lose "movement ease" in the back of the shirt.

The sleeves also seem to be dropping off of your shoulders by about an inch. I don't know if that was the effect that you wanted with your forward shoulder adjustment. Try pinning the top of the sleeves about an inch up on the shoulder seem and see how that fits. Try this before you try pinning the back darts, you might not need to make them as deep.

Thats all I have for now - pin fit first before doing any ripping or stitching.
Ruby
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby LeapFrog Libby on Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:34 pm

I agree with Ruby.. And I cannot see the front very clearly, but are the darts stitched all the way up to the tip of your nipples ?? Everything I read says the need to stop at least an inch or more under..It may be my vision.. I can't see it very clearly.
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby LegalDealer on Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:45 am

This is the result. I moved in the shoulder seam so that is it more inline. I also took out a bit at the hip. I did release the extra
deep back dart, but decided I liked it better with the deep darts. I may make this one again since I put so much altering in it that
hopefully the next one will be much quicker. What do you think?
Bonny
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby kaitlinnegan on Sun Oct 25, 2009 12:01 pm

The shoulders look greatly improved! Way to go!

I'm not totally sure about this, but it looks like the waistline of the pattern might be a bit lower than your waist? It seems the smallest part of the shirt is hitting you at about high hip level, but you can probably tell better when you're wearing it than I can from the pictures. What do you think? I'm not sure what the appropriate fix is, if that's the case - it seems like you should be able to fold a little length out of the pattern, but I'm not sure precisely where. I don't think you'd want to mess with the armscye since that area seems to be working well.
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby sewingmom on Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:43 pm

I like the shirt and I also think Kaitlinn might have hit on something about the waist line. Just a .5" alteration might be worth doing on the next blouse. This one is a keeper as is. I wish I hadn't gained so much weight in the last few months. That blouse style is my favorite. Good Job!!!!!!!!!!!
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby MartySews2 on Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:01 pm

Very pretty, Bonny, as it seems that you got the majority of the fitting issues worked out. In the photo of your back, it looks like the upper arm is pulling a little as if the sleeve cap is too tall. It may just be the angle of the photo though. I really like that pattern as it is very flattering to your shape. My waist sits right at my high hip as there is less than inch between the two. I don't know if that is how your waist is or not. I really think the fit is great.
Marty ;)
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Re: Please help me fit this shirt!

New postby LegalDealer on Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:32 pm

Thank you for your comments and suggestions. I will keep an eye on the patterns waistline on the next one.
I am pretty short waisted, so that an alteration there (even another) is probably NOT out of the question!
Thanks!
Bonny
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