Strapless bodice fitting, top edge of bust...zipper again

[kjh9835]

Thanks Marty. I was wondering if it was totally different than regular elastic. I'll check this week for some and if I don't find it anywhere, I have time to order. The dress fits other than the top edge and the wedding isn't until June 20th.

Never heard of elastic thread either (can you tell I haven't done much garment sewing other than scrubs?)

Kathy

[MartySews2]

I use elastic thread when making loop buttonholes or when I want to do some ruching on a garment.
Marty

[kjh9835]

Found it at JoAnn Fabrics in Vincennes so I got 3 pkgs of 5 yds. each. I know I won't need that much but at least I"ll have it on hand for the next project.

Rather than my "trial and error method" Is there a "rule of thumb" for how much I need to use? Should I use one continuous piece or three separate pieces?

Kathy

[MartySews2]

Kathy, when I use clear elastic, I use one piece across the area where I need it. I give it a gentle stretch & then stitch using a zigzag stitch into the seam allowance. It is also great for stabilizing T-shirt shoulders (used in RTW) & other projects where stabilization is needed. It is NOT good to use as waistband elastic but can stabilize a waist. Hope that this will work for you.
Marty

[kjh9835]

That was easy enough. I now have TWO completed, fitted muslins. The wedding is 28 days away. I can do it!!!

Kathy

[kjh9835]

This one is done in satin except the hem and zipper. I'm trying to do the zipper today.

Per the instructions, I completed the bodice and the skirt (both are lined), then stitched them together. the center back is open on the bodice and part way down the skirt for the 14" zipper. I can't figure out how to enclose the zipper between the lining and the satin because the bodice is already attached to the skirt.

Do I take the bodice apart from the skirt at the center back, put in the zipper and then re-attach the bodice to the skirt?

Kathy

[MartySews2]

Kathy, the way I do it is to sew the zipper in by machine on the edges of both the bodice & skirt starting at the bottom going up & then I stitch the zipper in by hand using a small needle & tiny stitches barely catching the fashion fabric. That's how I do a hand picked zipper in almost all of my satins or formal wear. Then, I fold under the seam allowance for the lining & whipstitch it to the edge of the zipper. It comes out nice & neat both inside & out. The zipper is fully enclosed & secured. Hope this helps.
Marty

[kjh9835]

The problem is the directions say nothing about sandwiching the zipper between the lining and the fabric. If I put the zipper in per the directions, the zipper would be against her skin on the inside. Not a big deal but probably not comfortable.

With the bodice and skirt attached and the waist seam allowance pressed towards the bodice, I can't put the zipper between the lining and the fabric. The only thing I can think of is to completely take the bodice off the skirt, take out the basting stitches that hold the lining to the fabric at the top edge of the skirt and the bottom edge of the bodice. Sew the waist seams back in on the fabric and the linings, press in the zipper seam allowance, sew the fabric bodice back onto the skirt then sew the lining bodice back onto the skirt and put in the zipper between. THAT'S ALOT OF WORK.

OR, should I just put the zipper in per the directions and cover it with ???? so it isn't scratchy on her skin?

Kathy

[sewingmom]

You could put a flap behind the zipper.

[MartySews2]

That's one of the reasons that I seldom look at pattern directions when sewing as there are so many steps left out. A lot of designers do not know construction techniques which is one of my pet peeves. What I do is to have the waist seam pressed to the skirt with a waist stay attached & I put in the zipper between the fashion fabric plus underlining with the lining next to the skin. A waist stay is something like grosgrain ribbon or hem tape sewn across the waistline to keep the weight of the skirt from pulling down on the bodice. Oh, how I wish you were closer so I could show you how to do this. Sometimes, I think that my explanations are inadequate. Remember, the skirt will be held up by the bodice & needs a little extra support. You treat the bodice & skirt as one piece of fabric when inserting the zipper. Also, use interfacing in your zipper opening. Some of the older sewing books has this information on how to insert a zipper between a bodice & skirt. I'll research some of my sewing books to see if I can find a clearer explanation on this. Don't be afraid of your fabric.
Marty