fitting issues

[Magot]

I am not a great garment sewer so need some advice. The last 2 tops I have made have been loose around the back of my neck a sort of sticky-outy bit of extra fabric so that it does not run flush on the collar to the back of my neck. I am a 36C and tend to make items for a 36 bust. Looking at the simplicity fitting advice it says that their patterns are made for a 36B as standard and anyone else should make a bust adjustment( it gives quite clear instructions) Would this difference be making the extra fabric at the neck if it is pulled slightly tighter at the bust than expected? I do not have gaping button hole issue so it is not so bad a fit and the darts don't seem to be that out. I know you are all going to tell me to make a muslin....but how do you fit the damn thing on yourself when there is no one else to help?

Measurement wise I am 36" bust with a 32" waist and a 37" hip, Definitely an apple - I have never had a waist but then again - I have a great Bum and tits!

[Skye]

Hi Magot - fitting argh......! The advise I have been given and follow is select my patterns by my high bust measurement not the full bust then if you are greater than a B cup do the full bust alteration(FBA) I wear a 34C bra measure 36high bust (ie under armpits and above the "girls" If you are happy with how the front fits it might just be something to do with your back I think it is called a high round back alteration 'cause we use the computer too much the shoulders tend to move forward and so we get a bit of rounding over the back.
Try posting a photo we might be able to help you. two books that I have found useful are Sandra Betzina Fast Fit and Fit for real people - Palmer/pletsch - it focus on tissue fitting which I find *&%^ impossible by myself but the explainations etc and corrections are clearly explained and illustrated.
I have been using more Burda patterns of late - they seem to accomadate the C cup with no alterations
good luck a muslin is well worth making - some of them are actually wearable too
Skye

[jwright]

I am so jealous of you guys.. All the tops I have made just don't fit because I am an F.. yes, I said it.. F. When I was at my heaviest I was busting out of a FF and refused to buy bigger. The tops I made never quite came out right... The darts just look funny on these.. Hopefully one day I will be able to sew some tops again... 42 more pounds and I will.

[Sewing Lady]

Jan, Try remeasuring your back width and compare it to the pattern. It was mentioned above about the curved back. You may need to adjust the width and raise the collar. Do post a pic it will help. Does the extra fabric look like on the back of a mans jacket (bubble ate the base of the neck)? I know lots of questions to answer a question.

[SmilieFace]

42 more pounds and I will.

Keep going with your weight loss! It's impressive and inspiring! Last year I lost 23 lbs from August through November. Yesterday, I stepped on the scale for the first this year, and I had gained 10 lbs back! Ack!

[Magot]

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e81/J ... hoto93.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e81/J ... hoto94.jpg

Not easy taking pictures of yourself in profile! I had similar issues with a cross over top I made - just too much fabric at the back of the neck.

[Sewing Lady]

Jan, JMO Have someone pinch out a dart shape in the back of the blouse. Measure the dart at the top, undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam. Basically, what you are doing is making a dart and rotating it to the shoulders. This will fix the RTW stuff, I think.

[kaitlinnegan]

Measure the dart at the top, undo the shoulder seam and remove half of the dart from the back only at each of the shoulder seam. Basically, what you are doing is making a dart and rotating it to the shoulders

Now, that sounds smart! I'll have to remember that - I have had this problem before too. Not as much since I started using my high bust measurement and doing a FBA, but sometimes thing still seem a little loose in the upper back.

[Magot]

Cunning idea Sewinglady - thanks! I knew someone here would have the brains to see round the problem I was having. RTW is normally fine - it is just the stuff I make.

[Sewing Lady]

Whoo Hoo!! Just try it to repair first and see if it works. Rotating the imaginary dart to the shoulder seams should work with patterns.