Adding a lining

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Adding a lining

New postby SmilieFace on Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:45 am

I am making a jumper (the same one I made before... NL 6726). The pattern calls for a lined bodice. My material, though, is not opaque, so I'm wanting to add a lining for the entire dress. What's the best way to do this? Below is what I'm thinking. Please correct or provide other suggestions.

1. Sew together front bodice with dress material
2. Sew together back bodice with dress material
3. Add skirt front (dress material) to front bodice (dress material)
4. Sew together back skirt (dress material) to back bodice (dress material).
5. Repeat steps 1-4 with lining
6. Attach lining to dress material along the sides of the front bodice, leaving the area where the bodice meets the skirt open
7. Attach lining to dress material along the sides of the back bodice, leaving the area where the bodice meets the skirt open
8. Join the front and back halves at the shoulders
9. Finish the side hems of the dress material
10. Finish the side hems of the lining
11. Turn out and add a zipper
12. Finish hems.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby jwright on Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:07 am

If I were you... I would want to sew the lining to the outer material first.. then stitch it together as if it were one piece. I hope that makes sense... In other words, cut your material and your lining, sew those together, then follow the normal directions for the rest of the construction... you will just have a two layer fabric.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby DorothyL on Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:08 am

That almost looks like you could make the entire thing of the lining and put it in as facing.
You could sew some of the fashion fabric to the top and armholes -- like the facings from the pattern if you think it may roll at the edge and be sure to under stitch.
Then you would probably tack it at that high waist line and, of course, cut the lining a little shorter at the hem.
Or you could just underline the whole thing and finish your seams nicely. That would be easiest if drape isn't a big issue. That is probably what I would do.
But that is just me -- other people might have better ideas.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby SmilieFace on Wed Mar 05, 2008 10:48 am

jwright wrote:If I were you... I would want to sew the lining to the outer material first.. then stitch it together as if it were one piece. I hope that makes sense... In other words, cut your material and your lining, sew those together, then follow the normal directions for the rest of the construction... you will just have a two layer fabric.


Hmmm...The instructions basically say to follow my Steps 1& 2, to do those steps with the lining, then attach the lining to the fabric, closing at where the bodice will meet the skirt. I guess I could follow those steps, and then attach the remaining lining and material so I have the one-layer fabric you mentioned.

DorothyL -- I'm not familiar with the term "underline." What do you mean by "underline the whole thing and finish the seams nicely"?
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby jwright on Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:19 am

SmilieFace wrote:Hmmm...The instructions basically say to follow my Steps 1& 2, to do those steps with the lining, then attach the lining to the fabric, closing at where the bodice will meet the skirt. I guess I could follow those steps, and then attach the remaining lining and material so I have the one-layer fabric you mentioned.



or.. you could just cut the lining pieces big enough to cover the entire skirt.. and finish the edges just like the rest.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby DorothyL on Wed Mar 05, 2008 1:09 pm

I would want to sew the lining to the outer material first.. then stitch it together as if it were one piece. I hope that makes sense...


What she said. Jen described underlining.

In this case you could underline the skirt part and do the bodice with the lining per the pattern directions. But it will change the drape more than just making a lining out of the skirt pattern, attaching it at the "waist" and letting it hang free. Just attach the lining at the waist before you attach that to the bodice which you make as usual.

Remember when you are cutting the lining NOT to make is smaller. I know it seems like it makes sense to make the lining smaller but everything I've read suggest making it just a tiny bit larger. I'm sure someone else can explain why because I don't remember.

(Where is Pam when we need her? :doh: :doh: )

If you decide to underline you could cut the lining about an inch shorter and sew the bottoms together right sides together then when you turn the lining up to the inside you won't even have to hem it.

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Re: Adding a lining

New postby Sewing Lady on Wed Mar 05, 2008 2:38 pm

Where is a pic of the jumper that you have already made? The basics are that you make another garment out of lining fabric. Use the facings for the neck and arms the same as the pattern, but lay them on the lining and trace the shape. Remember to add seam allowances to the lining or the facing won't fit. Then attach as the pattern calls.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby SmilieFace on Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:11 pm

Here's the thread about my jumper.

You all have been so helpful! Now I have too many options. :lol: I am thinking I will make the bodice as the directions say, underline (look at me using my new vocabulary word) the skirt, and attach that.

I have already cut the material for the skirts. Just to make sure I'm understanding correctly, I need to cut the lining the exact same size as I cut the skirt, right?
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby Sewing Lady on Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:15 pm

Oh yes. I follow the rule that the lining can be bigger but never smaller than the garment. That being said, if the lining is too big it will hang below the hem and give wrinkles that appear on the outside of the garment.
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Re: Adding a lining

New postby Sewing Lady on Wed Mar 05, 2008 3:25 pm

I would make the garment with all of the seams inside the lining and the fashion fabric. Construct everything BUT the shoulder seams as a unit. After the garment is sewn you put the shoulder (front to back and right sides together)and enclose. Sew all 4 layers together. Just IMO.
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