Twill Tape

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Twill Tape

New postby SmilieFace on Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:10 pm

Can anyone point me to instructions for how to apply twill tape and bias tape? An upcoming project requires twill tape, and I've seen patterns call for single or double fold bias tape. The problem is I have no idea how to attach any of them!
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby Sancin on Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:29 am

Doesn't the project plan tell you how to use them? Twill tape is usually sewn straight onto something for stabilizing or strengthing a seam or area. It woven in such a way to be very firm and strong. Bias tape is a tape cut on the bias and is used when something with a curve requires covering. Single fold actually has 2 folds. A fold on each side of a bias tape. It is used for hemming things.

Double fold tape actually has 3 folds. The tape is folded in 1/2 with one side slightly wider than the other. Then each side is folded so that the edges meet the original centre fold. Double fold tape is used to wrap around the edge of something else and the benefit is that the bias makes it flexable. The wider side is sewn onto the edge one is attaching it to, sewing in the fold. The tape is then rolled / turned over the edge it is to enclose with the 2nd fold on the edge. The 3rd fold is then sewn down, either invisibly by hand or top stiched by machine over the 3rd fold. When sewn by machine turn the edge over and stitch in the ditch which will 'catch' the 1st fold.

This probably is clear as mud in you don't have bias tape to actually see. :eh: Most packages of tape have instructions on the wrapper surrounding them. Write again when you actually have the tape. If not, do a Google search "attaching bias tape".

You can also make your own bias tapes. There are lots of instructions around. Try some basic 'how to bind' quilting instructions. I would use purchased tape if it is the first time you sew with it as the purchased tape is ironed so that the folds are very precise, not something that is easily done with making your own tape. Once you see how to use it, then you may wish to make your own. Frankly, if you only need a little bias tape in a basic colour, it is probably cheaper to purchase the tape. :think:

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Re: Twill Tape

New postby LeapFrog Libby on Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:06 pm

You said the upcoming project called for twill tape, so that means it needs stabilizing.. I use twill tape when I sew tee-shirts or sweat shirts on my serger.. I use it on shoulder seams which keeps them from stretching out of shape.. This is a must (to me, anyway) on tees and sweats as they lose their shape if you don't use it.. (the seams just keep growing and growing).. And my shoulders stay the same.. To apply, I just insert in the slot in my presser foot and start sewing.. If you don't have the slot, just carefully place it on the seamline and stitch..
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby MartySews2 on Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:14 pm

Sometimes twill tape or grosgrain ribbon is used as a waist stay in a dress with a full skirt. It helps to keep the skirt from pulling on the bodice. What project are you contemplating that would use twill tape? That might help us to be able to help you.
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby SmilieFace on Sat Jan 19, 2008 5:53 pm

I am making the pants from Simplicity 3566. I have the rest of the pants finished; I just need to add the twill tape. The pattern does not have a waistband, but I think I want to add one. If I strengthen some fabric with interfacing, and add a waistband, do I still need the twill tape?

The pattern does include directions for attaching the twill tape, but they are "clear as mud" to me. :P I was hoping to find some picture instructions online somewhere, but no such luck. :|
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby bridesmom on Sat Jan 19, 2008 9:15 pm

It kind of looks like these pants don't have a facing inside at the waist, but the twill tape replaces that?? I suppose you could create a waistband and attach it instead. Interface one half of the waistband (inside), attach the right side of the waistband to the right side of the pant, turn it over, finish off the inside edge, sew the ends, fold the inside edge in and press then hand sew it down to the pant right at the sewn waistline seam. I press my seam allowance up so the seam allowance is under the waistband. Make sense???
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby MartySews2 on Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:16 pm

When I looked at the front and back views of the pattern, it shows that there is not a waistband nor is there a facing for inside the waist. Therefore, you would sew the twill tape (approx 1 inch wide) around the top where a waistband or facing would go, then fold under to the wrong side and edge-stitch the top. You could also use some grosgrain ribbon if twill tape is unavailable. I would tack the twill tape to the darts and to the seams on the inside plus hand sew around the zipper. Does this make sense?
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby SmilieFace on Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:29 am

Thanks for the tips. I think I now understand how to attach twill tape. :) Of course, the more I think about it, the more I do want a waistband. Do I need to add both the twill tape and the waistband, or is it one or the other?
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby kaitlinnegan on Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:34 am

The pants pattern I made not too long ago called for twill tape at the seam of the top of the waistband, enclosed in the waistband to keep it from stretching out. It works really well -- those pants do not stretch out and sag in the waist when I wear them. :)
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Re: Twill Tape

New postby Sancin on Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:16 pm

When using twill tape at the waist of pants or skirts without a waistbank or facing, does it say how wide a twill tape to use? I have found that wide (over one inch) twill tape, makes for an stiff waist. A human waist is not straight and if sewn onto a top seam and then turned under, one is sewing onto a wider/longer area. Twill tape has no give and thus when sewn down there is puckering as one should not clip twill tape. Years ago I used to make skirts with no waist bands, but I used bias tape vs twill tape. If one is using twill tape it would have to be narrow making the top edge similar to a ring. :shock:
Personally, I like a product called roll ban for waists. It comes in various widths, has a little stretch and the centre section has a type of nylon web, making for a waistband with a bit of give yet one that doesn't crease or roll. It is used enclosed into a waist band as an interfacing. On the other hand, I have not make skirts or pants with a waistband for a long time as I like an elastic waist band made from cutting the body longer and turning over the elastic, leaving less bulk in my already bulky waist !! :lol:
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